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One found with joy that the South Indian seasoning podi – a rubble of fiery, crudely milled spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a sauce for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

You will need six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if wooden, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 minutes
Serves a couple

Four hundred grams starchy potatoes, chopped into 4cm chunks
8 ounces paneer, diced into 2cm cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
Half a teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
One teaspoon black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
1½ teaspoon flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two garlic cloves, skinned and shredded
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
about 3 tablespoons mild oil
1 red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
10g fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for nine minutes, then drain them and leave to steam dry for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for a short while, then drain and pat dry.

Pour the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then pound or blitz to a chunky blend.

Place in a medium-large bowl with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then lightly combine with the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Thread the paneer, potatoes and onions on to the prepared skewers, then place on a tray and set aside until needed – if desired, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Whisk all the sauce elements in a medium bowl. Heat the grill to its top temperature, then cook the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, topped with a little more flaky salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.